Roadtrip 4 New England & Canada East
Day 1
Ronkonkoma, NY - Providence, RI - Gloucester, MA
Finally we were ready to go on Roadtrip 4! In anticipation of this trip we had talked a lot about checking out whales, it almost seemed to be the sole reason for the trip. In either case, Canada was to be investigated, at least the southeast part of Canada.
The first stop was to be Boston. Silver Ghost was ready, looking strong. Lennart had waxed it, although he hadn't had enough time available to really polish it. But we had plenty of time to finish that during the trip. A doorhandle one day, the gascap the next day, soon she would be a shining lady yet again.
In Boston we started the usual hunt for a hotel bargain, a procedure we know inside and out by now. But in Boston we were not successful at all. Seems people in the northeastern US are not impressed by our charm offensive. After a few fruitless tries we left Boston and figured it's their mistake not to embrace us as ambassadors of goodwill.
The first stop was to be Boston. Silver Ghost was ready, looking strong. Lennart had waxed it, although he hadn't had enough time available to really polish it. But we had plenty of time to finish that during the trip. A doorhandle one day, the gascap the next day, soon she would be a shining lady yet again.
In Boston we started the usual hunt for a hotel bargain, a procedure we know inside and out by now. But in Boston we were not successful at all. Seems people in the northeastern US are not impressed by our charm offensive. After a few fruitless tries we left Boston and figured it's their mistake not to embrace us as ambassadors of goodwill.
We headed north, where to we didn't know, as long as the compass needle was showing north or in that general direction. We drove along the coast, and came to a small fishing village called Gloucester. This is not pronounced the way it's written, more by they way it sounds. Here we found a nice hotel right on the water, Cape Ann Motor Inn.
Parts of the movie "Perfect Storm" was filmed here.
Parts of the movie "Perfect Storm" was filmed here.
Day 2
Gloucester, MA - Portsmouth, NH - Bar Harbor, ME
Silver Ghost took us along the coast heading north at a nice pace. Rain was threatening our parade, with dark clouds all around us. We turned into Portsmouth, New Hampshire. There is an old section called Strawberry Banke, a few blocks with century old houses. Lots of finely detailed carpentry here. We passed Strawberry Banke Hotel, where Lennart had stayed one night in 1968!
Towards evening we arrived at the bridge leading into the parklike surroundings of Bar Harbor and found a reasonable room at the Villager Inn, in the middle of town.
Towards evening we arrived at the bridge leading into the parklike surroundings of Bar Harbor and found a reasonable room at the Villager Inn, in the middle of town.
Day 3
Bar Harbor and Acadia Park
We woke up a few minutes before sunrise to get some nice early morning photos. A beautiful, chilly, and clear morning.
We went back to the hotel for the free breakfast included, followed by a cheap cigar. Now the day could begin in earnest. We were heading for the Acadia national park. There were a couple of must sees, among them the Thunder Hole. It's a phenomenon best enjoyed in heavy winds and strong waves, since the waves together with the tide is what makes the thunder in the hole. Naturally there was no wind that day. JJ would say 'sheeet'. But we weren't sorry, we took some photos and had a nice chat with a park ranger instead. Then we continued up to Cadillac Mountain with a great view of the coast. Acadia Park is a beautiful mixture of sea, mountains and woods. A very popular destination! |
Day 4
Bar Harbor, ME - Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada
We discussed daily which place would be the best for our whale watching, or whale riding even, but never really got a definite answer. We had heard of a place called Tadoussac, north of Quebec, and we kept that in mind as a last resort.
We drove small roads up along the coast, to make it more interesting. On Route 1 we passed Blueberry Land, with blueberry pies, and all other things that can be made of blueberries. This was indeed blueberry country, and it was a big deal in Maine. Soon we came to Quoddy light house, the easternmost point in the US. On a ferry across the bay we met a marine astrologist, from Halifax. Could have been marine biologist. She told us about whales, big and small, but not where to find them.
During Roadtrip 3 we wanted originally to leave Detroit and go into Canada. But Lennart didn't have his passport with him that time. This time he did, which led to a smooth passage into New Brunswick, Canada. It was like we were on hockey skates, just gliding thru.
Saint John is an old harbor, lots of lumber was exported from there. It was the biggest such port in Canada years ago. Since then time has aged Saint John. It looked asleep, and beat up. Not much going on there, luckily we found one of Colonel Sanders establishments. Healthy food that filled us up real good.
We drove small roads up along the coast, to make it more interesting. On Route 1 we passed Blueberry Land, with blueberry pies, and all other things that can be made of blueberries. This was indeed blueberry country, and it was a big deal in Maine. Soon we came to Quoddy light house, the easternmost point in the US. On a ferry across the bay we met a marine astrologist, from Halifax. Could have been marine biologist. She told us about whales, big and small, but not where to find them.
During Roadtrip 3 we wanted originally to leave Detroit and go into Canada. But Lennart didn't have his passport with him that time. This time he did, which led to a smooth passage into New Brunswick, Canada. It was like we were on hockey skates, just gliding thru.
Saint John is an old harbor, lots of lumber was exported from there. It was the biggest such port in Canada years ago. Since then time has aged Saint John. It looked asleep, and beat up. Not much going on there, luckily we found one of Colonel Sanders establishments. Healthy food that filled us up real good.
Day 5
Saint John, NB - Hopewell Rocks, Bay of Fundy - Moncton - Halifax, Nova Scotia
We got an early start in the morning, since we wanted to arrive at Hopewell Rocks when the tide was at its lowest. We wanted to walk on the ocean floor! The tide at Bay of Fundy is the highest in the world. A 45-60 feet difference between ebb and tide is normal. It's also these massive flows of water that create the unique rock formations, looking like giant flowerpots. The weather was not co-operating however, the light for our photos was not good, it was raining. But it was nonetheless a strong visual experience.
We could stay on the ocean floor for a couple of hours, but when the tide started coming back in, caressing our ankles, we knew it was time to get the heck out of there.
We could stay on the ocean floor for a couple of hours, but when the tide started coming back in, caressing our ankles, we knew it was time to get the heck out of there.
On the way to Halifax, Nova Scotia, we decided to take a side trip to Moncton. There was a 'Magnetic Hill' in town. We of course thought it was just silly talk, that a car, in neutral, could back up a hill all by itself. But it really did! That was one of the most weird and unusual things we had been part of. Just to make sure, we did it a second time. There we went, up the hill, in neutral. Very odd! Very twisted! (read more about Magnetic Hill, opens in new window)
We drove on in the rain. We were a bit hesitant to drive all the way to Halifax, but we put the clogs down and eventually checked into a Holiday Inn Express, in Halifax, with free wifi and breakfast. Life's good.
We drove on in the rain. We were a bit hesitant to drive all the way to Halifax, but we put the clogs down and eventually checked into a Holiday Inn Express, in Halifax, with free wifi and breakfast. Life's good.
Day 6
Halifax, NS - Lunenburg, NS
Halifax seemed like another old port fallen on hard times. We had read and heard from a local lady about some nearby attractions. Peggy's Cove was a Nova Scotia landmark, as was the Balancing Rock. The Rock was on the other side of the peninsula, and would add a day to our travels. We hesitated, which is so unlike a Swampronker, and agreed we would make the decision later on. We walked into town, down by the harbor. Time to explore Halifax, and we found a nice marine museum, and no lines, no waiting. Actually very few people around. Josephine was out exercising with her dog, and we had a little chat with her. She had never been to Barcelona, or Kuala Lumpur. On the other hand we had never been to Peggy's Cove or her hometownn Yarmouth on the southern tip.
A cup of java from Starbucks got us accelerating towards Peggy's Cove along the coast. This lighthouse is now synonymous with Nova Scotia. It's pretty and draws lots of tourists. Many artists have also sought out this area because of the magic light.
A cup of java from Starbucks got us accelerating towards Peggy's Cove along the coast. This lighthouse is now synonymous with Nova Scotia. It's pretty and draws lots of tourists. Many artists have also sought out this area because of the magic light.
Next stop was Lunenburg. The road there is very scenic with rocks, forests and ocean, alternating back and forth in a harmonious mix. Lunenburg was founded 1753 and became one of UNESCO's world heritage sites in 1995 on account of its unique architecture. As implied by the name, it was founded by Germans. A very beautiful town with houses painted in pastel colors. We hunted for a hotel for a few hours and finally found Rum Runner Inn. A nice old place in the harbor with lots of antiques.
After a good steak we took a walk thru town. A nice evening with a nice sun setting across the bay. Hilda tried to talk us into going whale watching, but she couldn't persuade us. There were no guarantees finding any whales, and we declined. She hadn't been to Barcelona or Kuala Lumpur either.
After a good steak we took a walk thru town. A nice evening with a nice sun setting across the bay. Hilda tried to talk us into going whale watching, but she couldn't persuade us. There were no guarantees finding any whales, and we declined. She hadn't been to Barcelona or Kuala Lumpur either.
Day 7
Lunenburg, NS - Antigonish - Baddeck, NS
Leaving Lunenburg we decided to skip the Balancing Rock, and headed instead to the Cabot Trail, on Cape Breton Island. The trail is supposed to be one of the world's 10 most scenic trails. We were curious. How pretty can it get?
On our previous roadtrips there was almost always something interesting to look at along the way. Here, in Canada, there were trees, trees, and more trees. Well, it's nice, but nothing much happens, variety wise. Still, it was interesting to experience a monotonous ride thru the wilderness. We put the pedal down and arrived to Antigonish (Home of the Highland Games) in time for a filling pasta lunch.
Again, pedal down, and Silver Ghost stretched out like gray mare, galloping north to unknown destinations.
We found a nice place in Baddeck, right at the start of the Cabot Trail. Gisele's Auberge Inn was near the water, and we unloaded and went for a walk on the waterfront. There we happened upon Joe Olesen and his daughter Naomi. They were First Nation tribal people, and Joe in addition was half Swedish. His Swedish father had married a First Nation squaw, of the M'ikMaw tribe. We had a good long talk with Joe and he taught us that they interestingly have no word for 'goodbye'. Instead they say 'Mi molte', meaning 'Til we meet again'.
All next day was reserved for Cabot Trail. We charged our cameras and went to bed hoping for less rain.
On our previous roadtrips there was almost always something interesting to look at along the way. Here, in Canada, there were trees, trees, and more trees. Well, it's nice, but nothing much happens, variety wise. Still, it was interesting to experience a monotonous ride thru the wilderness. We put the pedal down and arrived to Antigonish (Home of the Highland Games) in time for a filling pasta lunch.
Again, pedal down, and Silver Ghost stretched out like gray mare, galloping north to unknown destinations.
We found a nice place in Baddeck, right at the start of the Cabot Trail. Gisele's Auberge Inn was near the water, and we unloaded and went for a walk on the waterfront. There we happened upon Joe Olesen and his daughter Naomi. They were First Nation tribal people, and Joe in addition was half Swedish. His Swedish father had married a First Nation squaw, of the M'ikMaw tribe. We had a good long talk with Joe and he taught us that they interestingly have no word for 'goodbye'. Instead they say 'Mi molte', meaning 'Til we meet again'.
All next day was reserved for Cabot Trail. We charged our cameras and went to bed hoping for less rain.
Day 8
Baddeck, NS - Cabot Trail - Cheticamp, NS
We woke up to a sky raining cats and dogs. Exactly what we did not want. We knew what JJ would have said..oh well, It is what it is, so we hit the Cabot trail in the early morn.
The roadsigns were written in two languages, English and Gaelic. The first immigrants landing here were Gaelic, and the language seems to be holding its own here, although we didn't actually get to hear it. Instead we got to listen to a Dutch dude. He was the owner of our lunch restaurant, the Dancing Moose. A few years ago he packed up his family in Holland after visiting it on a vacation. Now he's on Cape Breton Island serving up Dutch pannekoeken to the trail eaters, and loving it.
We devoured a stack of his pannekoeken and continued driving, now into a wall of fog. We could see our hands in front of us, but not much more. After a while the fog cleared, and we got to see more of the fantastic views of the shoreline. Had we come a few weeks later, we were told, we would have seen exploding red and yellow fall foliage, we'll have to do that next time.
We then stopped to say hello to Kevin MacLeod, a retired whaler, a fisherman of the highest caliber. Despite a recent heart attack, he was in a good mood. He confessed that he had never been to Barcelona. He told us he had left his home once. After a couple of weeks he got so homesick he returned back home and never left again. Cape Breton Island was the most beautiful and best place he knew of.
Our final destination for the day turned out to be Cheticamp, a town with about a thousand people on the west side of Cape Breton Island.
Driving in Canada we kept seeing the moose warning signs. Lots of them. That was exciting. We were passing moose signs left and right, but no actual moose...yet.
The roadsigns were written in two languages, English and Gaelic. The first immigrants landing here were Gaelic, and the language seems to be holding its own here, although we didn't actually get to hear it. Instead we got to listen to a Dutch dude. He was the owner of our lunch restaurant, the Dancing Moose. A few years ago he packed up his family in Holland after visiting it on a vacation. Now he's on Cape Breton Island serving up Dutch pannekoeken to the trail eaters, and loving it.
We devoured a stack of his pannekoeken and continued driving, now into a wall of fog. We could see our hands in front of us, but not much more. After a while the fog cleared, and we got to see more of the fantastic views of the shoreline. Had we come a few weeks later, we were told, we would have seen exploding red and yellow fall foliage, we'll have to do that next time.
We then stopped to say hello to Kevin MacLeod, a retired whaler, a fisherman of the highest caliber. Despite a recent heart attack, he was in a good mood. He confessed that he had never been to Barcelona. He told us he had left his home once. After a couple of weeks he got so homesick he returned back home and never left again. Cape Breton Island was the most beautiful and best place he knew of.
Our final destination for the day turned out to be Cheticamp, a town with about a thousand people on the west side of Cape Breton Island.
Driving in Canada we kept seeing the moose warning signs. Lots of them. That was exciting. We were passing moose signs left and right, but no actual moose...yet.
Day 9
Cheticamp, NS - Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island
The rain at sunrise woke us up at our Acadian motel. The weather was just not co-operating these last few days. We discussed which way to go. One alternative was to drive to the ferry to Prince Edwards Island (PEI), which we kind of liked. But warnings and alerts were now in place, a hurricane was bearing down on our area, which might force the ferry to stay in harbor. We took a chance, Silver Ghost went pedal down, we made it in time, and the ferry left before the hurricane arrived.
PEI is the birthplace of Brad Richards, who used to play for NY Rangers, a good export from this island. The capital is Charlottetown, and we found a hotel in the downtown area. We checked in, walked just a few steps to our room #407, and there discovered that I had managed to loose the room keys. Feeling slightly embarrassed, we got a new key at the reception.
We took our usual walk around town that evening. Had a good dinner at a popular restaurant. Here we learned that potatoes from PEI are something special. After a taste test we agreed.
PEI is the birthplace of Brad Richards, who used to play for NY Rangers, a good export from this island. The capital is Charlottetown, and we found a hotel in the downtown area. We checked in, walked just a few steps to our room #407, and there discovered that I had managed to loose the room keys. Feeling slightly embarrassed, we got a new key at the reception.
We took our usual walk around town that evening. Had a good dinner at a popular restaurant. Here we learned that potatoes from PEI are something special. After a taste test we agreed.
Day 10
Charlottetown, PE - Moncton, NB
Our thoughts this wet and rainy morning was to drive to the north side and explore the island a bit. We noticed right away that this was a very different landscape. Very little forest, more of a rolling landscape, not unlike Skåne actually. People all over were very friendly, waving and smiling. Maybe because there weren't many other tourists around. It felt like an undiscovered paradise.
As in Roadtrip 3 we met an Ann. This time not from Michigan, but Anne from Green Gables. From the pages of Lucy Maud Montgomery's famous book.
We also saw small fishing villages, where the goal was to hunt whales, not herring. They liked to hang up the whale fins on their harbor huts as trophies of a successful hunt.
We liked this place, we got the feeling we would like to come back one day and see the rest of the island.
Going back to the mainland across a majestic bridge we were curious what the toll would be. But it turned out, they only charge for arriving, not leaving. The ferry ticket turned out to be a two way ticket.
Back in Moncton we found a nice hotel, centrally located. Newly renovated, and cheap, not sure why. Maybe they just needed business, any business. It was still raining, and we took a quick walk to a Mexican restaurant a few blocks away.
Back at the hotel, they had some guys rocking it out, music in the basement. A local band played loudly and proudly!
We also saw small fishing villages, where the goal was to hunt whales, not herring. They liked to hang up the whale fins on their harbor huts as trophies of a successful hunt.
We liked this place, we got the feeling we would like to come back one day and see the rest of the island.
Going back to the mainland across a majestic bridge we were curious what the toll would be. But it turned out, they only charge for arriving, not leaving. The ferry ticket turned out to be a two way ticket.
Back in Moncton we found a nice hotel, centrally located. Newly renovated, and cheap, not sure why. Maybe they just needed business, any business. It was still raining, and we took a quick walk to a Mexican restaurant a few blocks away.
Back at the hotel, they had some guys rocking it out, music in the basement. A local band played loudly and proudly!
Day 11
Moncton, NB - Miramichi, NB
We wanted to go on the Acadian Trail, but had a hard time getting out of Moncton, probably due to Magnetic Hill, which still left us confounded. When the compass showed NE we put the pedal down, halfway, and got on the Acadian Trail, a small country road. We don't like the highways too much, simply too boring with only trees to look at.
The French influence surprised us. This was Acadia country. The French flag was everywhere, not many Canadian flags to be found.
People spoke some kind of Frenglish, impossible to understand, even for the locals. We stopped at Carmela's house. She was the town's schoolbus driver. She told us that people from Quebec speak a very different tongue, and they cannot communicate with them. Many many moons ago her Acadian family had been driven out of Acadia by the English, but had returned a few generations later. The MikMak indian tribe had then helped them against the English. They got into mixing it up, the Acadians and the MikMaks, and so eventually Carmela was born.
Going up the coast we saw lots of oyster beds along the coast of St Lawrence Bay. The water here is always cold, about 40, even in the summer. It's the Labrador stream that's pumping in ice-cold water, as well as whales, for that matter.
At night we arrived at Miramichi, a real lumber jack town. The whole town was preparing for the nights hockeygame as if it was the Stanley Cup final. Hockey is a religion in this country, that's for sure. The local team was properly called The Timberwolves. Tonights adversary was a team from Truro, a game a few divisions down on the ladder. But everybody in town was going. And so did we. It was 1-1 after 10:22 in the 2nd period.
The French influence surprised us. This was Acadia country. The French flag was everywhere, not many Canadian flags to be found.
People spoke some kind of Frenglish, impossible to understand, even for the locals. We stopped at Carmela's house. She was the town's schoolbus driver. She told us that people from Quebec speak a very different tongue, and they cannot communicate with them. Many many moons ago her Acadian family had been driven out of Acadia by the English, but had returned a few generations later. The MikMak indian tribe had then helped them against the English. They got into mixing it up, the Acadians and the MikMaks, and so eventually Carmela was born.
Going up the coast we saw lots of oyster beds along the coast of St Lawrence Bay. The water here is always cold, about 40, even in the summer. It's the Labrador stream that's pumping in ice-cold water, as well as whales, for that matter.
At night we arrived at Miramichi, a real lumber jack town. The whole town was preparing for the nights hockeygame as if it was the Stanley Cup final. Hockey is a religion in this country, that's for sure. The local team was properly called The Timberwolves. Tonights adversary was a team from Truro, a game a few divisions down on the ladder. But everybody in town was going. And so did we. It was 1-1 after 10:22 in the 2nd period.
Day 12
Miramichi, NB - Tadoussac, Quebec Province
Today we were aiming for Tadoussac, and whales, which would take a few hours. Especially if we missed the ferry in Rimouski. Last one left at 6pm, and we didn't feel we had much time to spare. So we let the Silver Ghost go full throttle. After all, it is almost a racing car. Today we went for speed on the highway, no backroads this time. We made the ferry and crossed a dark and menacing St Lawrence Bay.
It felt like going to a different country when we entered the Province of Quebec. Different landscape, all signs in French. Even the roadsigns were in French only, despite the Canadian law that says it should be in both English and French. Oddly enough even all the other tourists were now French tourists, no other English speaking tourists that we saw. A bit odd.
Tadoussac is the world's best whale watching place. This according to the towns people we met. We said, sure..Prove it!
This was to be proven the next day. We found a hotel in the middle of town. The town was so small that everything was actually in the middle of town. There were a lot of other eager whale watching tourists around, as well as backpackers of all sizes.
Tadoussac was the first French trading station in New France in todays Quebec Province. Founded 1600 by Pierre Chavin. Of 16 settlers the first year, only five survived the first winter. Tadoussac remained the only French harbor by St Lawrence Bay for the next 30 years.
It felt like going to a different country when we entered the Province of Quebec. Different landscape, all signs in French. Even the roadsigns were in French only, despite the Canadian law that says it should be in both English and French. Oddly enough even all the other tourists were now French tourists, no other English speaking tourists that we saw. A bit odd.
Tadoussac is the world's best whale watching place. This according to the towns people we met. We said, sure..Prove it!
This was to be proven the next day. We found a hotel in the middle of town. The town was so small that everything was actually in the middle of town. There were a lot of other eager whale watching tourists around, as well as backpackers of all sizes.
Tadoussac was the first French trading station in New France in todays Quebec Province. Founded 1600 by Pierre Chavin. Of 16 settlers the first year, only five survived the first winter. Tadoussac remained the only French harbor by St Lawrence Bay for the next 30 years.
Day 13
Whales in Tadoussac
We woke up to a chilly morning. 3-4 hours in a Zodiac boat could be both wet and cold, so we put on as many layers of clothing as we could find, onboard we would get other 'survival coats' from the skipper.
Finally we were on our way to meet the whales! The excitement was building! Our guide and skipper was in radio contact with other boats out for the same reason. When the alarm went off, everybody turned and headed for the same goal in the same direction. Soon enough we spotted a few smaller whales at a distance. We got closer to them, and found not just one, but a handful of whales diving all around us. The law says not to go closer than 600 feet. But when we were sitting still in the water, the whales would seek us out, and they were curious. It was a very powerful feeling to have many tons of muscle right under our little rubber boat. A flick of their tales could have flipped us over. But the guide informed us that they like to come close, but they never touch the boat. Their skin is very sensitive and they are cautious not to touch the boats. For this reason the motors on our boats were always kept running to warn the whales that we were around. We saw mostly humpback whales, plus some smaller fin whales.
After 4 hours we were frozen and felt very satisfied with the great experience of a whale hunt. Lennart had wanted to go whale riding, but that was just silly. Too cold!
At night we had a nice warming meal at a restaurant nearby our hotel. We fell asleep early.
Finally we were on our way to meet the whales! The excitement was building! Our guide and skipper was in radio contact with other boats out for the same reason. When the alarm went off, everybody turned and headed for the same goal in the same direction. Soon enough we spotted a few smaller whales at a distance. We got closer to them, and found not just one, but a handful of whales diving all around us. The law says not to go closer than 600 feet. But when we were sitting still in the water, the whales would seek us out, and they were curious. It was a very powerful feeling to have many tons of muscle right under our little rubber boat. A flick of their tales could have flipped us over. But the guide informed us that they like to come close, but they never touch the boat. Their skin is very sensitive and they are cautious not to touch the boats. For this reason the motors on our boats were always kept running to warn the whales that we were around. We saw mostly humpback whales, plus some smaller fin whales.
After 4 hours we were frozen and felt very satisfied with the great experience of a whale hunt. Lennart had wanted to go whale riding, but that was just silly. Too cold!
At night we had a nice warming meal at a restaurant nearby our hotel. We fell asleep early.
Day 14
Tadoussac, QE - Saguenay Fjord - Quebec, QE
When we pulled away from Tadoussac in the morning we saw a lonely little girl with a big backpack hitch hiking. She asked for a ride to her starting point of her four day hike. We were passing her area anyway in half an hour, and we invited her in. Amandine, from Paris, was hiking to look for bears and whales. Very brave little woman!
We continued along the Saguenay Fjord. It was a beautiful stretch along that water and our hope was to see the beluga whales. We didn't see any. Didn't even see a herring. We arrived to Alma, and took a left, south towards Quebec City. Driving thru the forests, woods and trees. For hours. Plus moose signs, no moose, but many many moose warning signs.
We spoke about Quebec and France, we both had the feeling that Quebec was more French than France itself. They really try to preserve their frenchness, their traditions, customs and language. No dual languages here, it's all French, or nothing.
Our hotel had to be a bit outside Quebec itself. It was just too expensive in there. So we found a good cheap hotel west of Quebec, and nicely decorated in modern Scandinavian style, we liked it.
We continued along the Saguenay Fjord. It was a beautiful stretch along that water and our hope was to see the beluga whales. We didn't see any. Didn't even see a herring. We arrived to Alma, and took a left, south towards Quebec City. Driving thru the forests, woods and trees. For hours. Plus moose signs, no moose, but many many moose warning signs.
We spoke about Quebec and France, we both had the feeling that Quebec was more French than France itself. They really try to preserve their frenchness, their traditions, customs and language. No dual languages here, it's all French, or nothing.
Our hotel had to be a bit outside Quebec itself. It was just too expensive in there. So we found a good cheap hotel west of Quebec, and nicely decorated in modern Scandinavian style, we liked it.
Day 15
Quebec City
Since we were staying outside of town, we took a bus into Quebec City in the morning. We found a Starbucks to get a good start. We again discussed various strategies on how to get a handle on this town. We had read about Vieux Carre, the old town of Quebec, built by the water, protected by cliffs in the back. We took a walk there.
Old Town had the feel of many old towns in Europe. We strode around, up and down the many steps from old town up to new town and vice versa. We followed all this walking with a classic local meal called poutine. Delicious. Returning back to our hotel, we had to wait for the bus a long time, but we had company of a retired teacher. She had never ever been to Barcelona. Nor Kuala Lumpur. We advised her to go.
Old Town had the feel of many old towns in Europe. We strode around, up and down the many steps from old town up to new town and vice versa. We followed all this walking with a classic local meal called poutine. Delicious. Returning back to our hotel, we had to wait for the bus a long time, but we had company of a retired teacher. She had never ever been to Barcelona. Nor Kuala Lumpur. We advised her to go.
Day 16
Quebec, QE - Montreal, QE
Too much city. We wanted back to nature.
As luck would have it, as we drove south to Montreal we were surrounded by huge cornfields, Life's Good!
As luck would have it, as we drove south to Montreal we were surrounded by huge cornfields, Life's Good!
Day 17
Montreal
Today we went downtown Montreal. We started with a bus, then a subway, together with two Canadian guys from our hotel, the very fine Holiday Inn out by the airport. The two were hunters on their way up north for a big game safari, and were paying big bucks to get the real experience of the wilderness.
The Montreal Metro seems to be a copy of the Paris Metro. Which is good, the one in Paris should be an example on how to build a metro. Very easy to get around.
Downtown didn't quite live up to our expectations. It was just another big city, we thought. Ok, we were there for one day only, and we were probably spoiled by the cuteness of Quebec. Tough act to follow.
The Montreal Metro seems to be a copy of the Paris Metro. Which is good, the one in Paris should be an example on how to build a metro. Very easy to get around.
Downtown didn't quite live up to our expectations. It was just another big city, we thought. Ok, we were there for one day only, and we were probably spoiled by the cuteness of Quebec. Tough act to follow.
Day 18
Montreal, QE - Barre, Vermont
Time to start heading 'home' again. Back to the USA. We wanted to go via Vermont for two reasons. One was to see the fall colors, that are supposed to be something special. The other reason was that Per had never been to Vermont, and could now check it off his list. He wants to visit all 48 continental states before he goes six feet under.
On the way down towards the border we meet the Man. He was the first person to inquire about the meaning of the Swampronker sign on the back of Silver Ghost. He never understood our answer, but seemed happy anyway. We then parted ways when the light turned green.
The border crossing was easy. We then took Hwy 100 that is supposed to be 'the' road to take at leaf peeping times. We were probably a week early for the full effect, but it was still gorgeous with a lot of intense colors all around us.
Along Hwy100 is also Ben&Jerry's icecream factory. We wouldn't mind some free samples, but we weren't alone. The line to get in was out to the highway, and we turned around and kept going. Standing in line is just silly.
The hotel for the night was hard to find around these parts. Not very populated, and not many hotels, Eventually we found one in Barre. Maybe not the finest establishment, but it was good enough for two weary Swampronkers.
On the way down towards the border we meet the Man. He was the first person to inquire about the meaning of the Swampronker sign on the back of Silver Ghost. He never understood our answer, but seemed happy anyway. We then parted ways when the light turned green.
The border crossing was easy. We then took Hwy 100 that is supposed to be 'the' road to take at leaf peeping times. We were probably a week early for the full effect, but it was still gorgeous with a lot of intense colors all around us.
Along Hwy100 is also Ben&Jerry's icecream factory. We wouldn't mind some free samples, but we weren't alone. The line to get in was out to the highway, and we turned around and kept going. Standing in line is just silly.
The hotel for the night was hard to find around these parts. Not very populated, and not many hotels, Eventually we found one in Barre. Maybe not the finest establishment, but it was good enough for two weary Swampronkers.
Day 19
Barre, VT - Springfield, MA
It was raining cats and dogs when we woke up at Days Inn. It eased off as we pulled out, and we decided to continue on Hwy 100 south in our hunt for pretty leaf colors, but not too much around here.
We did find a few sideroads with actual Deliverance feel. One road was blocked by another car, and we were unable to pass. We got suspicious, Lennart got out of the car. Per stayed and pulled up his one inch survival knife Lennart had given him earlier. We were ready. We came upon a guy with a holster standing in the bushes. The movie 'The Good, the Bad and the Ugly' flickered in our brains. Lennart and the gunman stared at each other. Lennarts right hand was twitching.
But all went well. It was a guy that had gotten lost and was trying to figure out where he was from the map on the side of the road.
After a couple of hours we got tired of Hwy 100. We got on a bigger highway, taking us straight down to Springfield, Massachussetts. In the evening we took a walk, and found Hooters. An interesting eating experience with sexy waitresses, with their dudes hanging out in the back booths.
We did find a few sideroads with actual Deliverance feel. One road was blocked by another car, and we were unable to pass. We got suspicious, Lennart got out of the car. Per stayed and pulled up his one inch survival knife Lennart had given him earlier. We were ready. We came upon a guy with a holster standing in the bushes. The movie 'The Good, the Bad and the Ugly' flickered in our brains. Lennart and the gunman stared at each other. Lennarts right hand was twitching.
But all went well. It was a guy that had gotten lost and was trying to figure out where he was from the map on the side of the road.
After a couple of hours we got tired of Hwy 100. We got on a bigger highway, taking us straight down to Springfield, Massachussetts. In the evening we took a walk, and found Hooters. An interesting eating experience with sexy waitresses, with their dudes hanging out in the back booths.
Day 20
Springfield, MA - Ronkonkoma, NY
Todays ride was a Bullit run down to Ronkonkoma.
All fun things must eventually come to an end.
Almost three weeks on the road, 3300 miles behind us, and many many sights and experiences richer.
Like our very wise half brother Albert used to say 'I love to travel, but hate to arrive'
As the Mik'Maws taught us...it's never goodbye, always 'Mi moltes!' 'Til I see you again!'
All fun things must eventually come to an end.
Almost three weeks on the road, 3300 miles behind us, and many many sights and experiences richer.
Like our very wise half brother Albert used to say 'I love to travel, but hate to arrive'
As the Mik'Maws taught us...it's never goodbye, always 'Mi moltes!' 'Til I see you again!'
Watch a musical slideshow on the right, |
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